Black Lake
 
Black Lake (黑海) is one of the most scenic natural features of the Haba massif. Perched at an elevation of 4,100 meters, it is by far the largest of several alpine lakes lying on the northwest slopes of the mountain. The name derives from the waters’ appearance, the result of the depth and composition of the lake bed. From the shore you can enjoy extensive views of moor and mountain at every turn. You can briskly walk around the lake in 45 minutes, but a more leisurely stroll allows the outsized scenery to soak into your soul.

Best times to visit
 
May and June present the prettiest time of year at Black Lake, with rhododendron trees blossoming on the surrounding slopes in shades of white, pink and yellow. Following the summer rainy season, autumn brings cooler temperatures. That’s when leaves of the Yehuajiaoshu tree (野花椒树), meaning Wild Flowering Pepper Tree, turn fiery red, a flash point of color around the lake. Several of these trees dot the shoreline. The best time to view the trees is in the second week of October.

Fauna
 
Black Lake is said to be home to the critically endangered Chinese Giant Salamander. In favorable environments it grows as long as 1.5 meters, making it one of the largest amphibians in the world. The species has become rare due to loss of habitat and demand by Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). Hunting the animal is prohibited by law, and while breeding programs within China may help revive the species, future prospects look dire. The amphibian inhabiting Black Lake might actually be a species of newt instead of the famous salamander. The nearest Giant Salamander habitat may actually be situated near the Yunnan-Sichuan border, some distance away. The only way to know for sure is to obtain a swab sample for DNA analysis, a project that has not yet been attempted.
 
Some Haba Village residents eat the salamander (or newt) for its health benefits. They call it Wawayu (娃娃鱼), after the sound it makes resembling the wail of a crying baby. One time at Black Lake, my guide walked along the shore turning over rocks. At last he found a small amphibian, about 10 centimeters long. We had paused en route to another destination, and it dawned on me he intended to eat it. He plunked the animal down, covered it with a rock and tamped down. I protested, to no avail. When we returned later my guide turned over the rock, to discover the critter had vanished. I silently rejoiced. Now when I hire a guide I insist—no hunting Wawayu!

Winter scene

Night skies
 
Dark sky, bright star, nighttime at Black Lake. At 4,000 meters, the Milky Way shines. This is a rare treat, since most of us put up with street lights blotting out the firmament. Only on the southern horizon does one detect the faintest hint of civilization, the wisp of a glow emanating from Lijiang.

Socked in

Best practices
 
Several huts populate the shores and surrounding slopes of Black Lake. Most are locked by their owners, residents of the Hui hamlet of Longwangbian (龙汪边) in Haba Village (哈巴村). These buildings and their owners should be respected.
 
Sadly, visitors and locals alike don’t always respect the environment. Here and there pumps and other machinery lie abandoned on shore or in the lake itself, detracting from the natural beauty of the area. Tent platforms excavated on the shoreline serve clients during high season. I hope appreciation for the land will take hold in the future, and these scars on the earth will become memories.

How to get there
 
Three trails give access to Black Lake: Lanhua Meadow Route (兰花坪路线), Jianshan Route (尖山路线), and Base Camp Route (大本营路线). Lanhua Meadow offers a more remote and secluded journey than the others. The Jianshan Route passes near a 40-meter waterfall half way up. The steep upper section makes it the most strenuous approach. The popular Base Camp Route is a veritable thoroughfare of mountaineers shooting for the summit, but relatively few proceed past Base Camp to the lake.